See why Nuremberg’s historic – and, well, epic – Christmas market is worth the effort

Nuremberg's Frauenkirche overlook the annual Christmas market — Perati Komson / Shutterstock

Nuremberg’s larger, more famous sister down the road may hog the spotlight in September and October (we’re talking about Munich’s Oktoberfest of course), but Christmas firmly belongs to Nuremberg.

Although never really mentioned in the same breathe as your Berlins, Hamburgs, Colognes and indeed Munichs, Nuremberg is probably just as important as any German city. From a historic perspective, its an extremely rich place – both good and bad.

A designated ‘Imperial City’, Nuremberg is centred around an extensive medieval centre. Much of the centre has been either preserved, or completely rebuilt after the city was all but razed during World War II. This results in gorgeous winding streets, beautiful cathedrals, ancient hospitals and a gigantic castle that overlooks the old part of the city.

And it’s this medieval centre that has helped the city’s annual Christmas market, the Christkindlesmarkt, to make its way to the very top of many best German Christmas market lists. Each year, two million visitors descend on the city to experience all things Christmas, so something good must be happening…

A City of Markets

Crowds line the streets of Nuremberg during the Christmas Market — AMzPhoto / Shutterstock

To understand why Nuremberg’s Christmas Market is so good, we need to understand why Nuremberg was the place to have it in the first place. The answer lies in the fact that, for the best part of 1,000 years, the city has been a critical crossroads for Europe.

As an unofficial capital of the Holy Roman Empire, travelling fairs, local markets, tournaments and visits from delegates and royalty from across Europe contributed to a culture of events that survives to this day. Indeed, Nuremberg hosts dozens of annual events at its gigantic purpose-built convention centre, or Messe. This includes the world’s largest toy fair, so you know Christmas is going to be held in high regard.

Although nobody actually knows the exact history of the Christkindlesmarket or when the first market took place, it can be assumed that Christmas-related wares would have been included in the regular weekly fair since at least the early 1500s.

In 1530, humanist and historian Willibald Pickheimer writes go the local nun being sent to Nuremberg’s Christmas market to buy spices.

The Germanic National Museum in Nuremberg also hosts a wooden box dating to 1628 that is inscribed as being from the Christkindlesmarkt too.

What we can be certain of are the traditions that have been around beyond living memory, and are still present to this day. The first of which is the market’s name, literally the ‘Christ Child Market’.

Christkindlesmarkt Traditions

A traditional Lebkuchen — Corinna Haselmayer / Shutterstock

Every two years, a local girl, aged between 18 and 19, is selected to perform as the ‘Christ Child’. This involves climbing up to the balcony of the Frauenkirche, Nuremberg’s famous church that overlooks the Hauptmarkt (main market square), dressed in white and gold and long flowing blonde hair (real hair not always necessary), and delivering the same speech, or derivative, that has been in place since 1948. Twee, yes, but an important part of the market’s opening evening!

Across the square, the Schöner Brunnen (‘beautiful fountain’) will be the gold-gilded miniature spire that has a huge crowd around it all times. The reason? A golden ring, fitted into the railing that surrounds the gothic mini-spire that isn’t really a fountain at all.

It’s said that spinning this ring will bring you luck, especially important when visiting at Christmas with a new year around the corner!

An Enchanting Setting

Christmas lights in the tree in Nuremberg — Arnold.Petersen / Shutterstock

The Christkindlesmarkt does a decent job of overtaking pretty much all of Nuremberg’s city centre, but the heart of the market is the Hauptmarkt. A gentle downhill stroll from the castle, this medieval market square is home to two important features; the gorgeous, intricately fronted Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), and the the Schöner Brunnen.

The Church, as mentioned, hosts not just the opening speech of the market, but also welcomes visitors to enjoy the restored interiors and catch some respite from the cold.

The Christkindlesmarkt looks especially inviting at night, when the buildings surrounding the hundreds of small wooden huts light up to create a magical winter wonderland that only gets better the colder the weather.

Often, the Christkindlesmarkt overspills to other public areas and streets of the city. The main pedestrian thoroughfare that connects the Hauptmarkt with the Lorenzkirche all the way to the train station is often packed with stalls.

You may even encounter ad-hoc and pop ups further from the Hauptmarkt, especially around the extra-pretty Trödelmarkt and in front of the Heilig-Geist Spital.

Endless Christmas Shopping

Christmas stalls in Nuremberg's Hauptmarkt — marcociannarel / Shutterstock

Imagine the best Christmas market you’ve ever been to and times it by ten. Nuremberg’s Christmas market is almost like a small city in itself, with over a thousand small wooden huts and stalls offering everything from trinkets to tree decorations and beyond.

It’s the ideal place to find Christmas gifts too, with local crafts and clothes, toys, books and even homewares sold in every corner of the market.

Beyond the stalls, don’t forget to check out Kathe Wohlfahrt, a gigantic Christmas store that remains open year-round. Alongside cool souvenirs like custom Christmas stockings and those cute trains that circle the Christmas Tree, you’ll find giant statues and full-sized Santa Claus figures that probably won’t fit in your suitcase. The store’s epic decoration during Christmastime is worth a visit alone.

Beyond the Hauptmarkt, you’ll see signs for the Markt der Partnerstädte, or the sister cities market. This smaller market includes stalls representing Nuremberg’s global partners, from Brasov in Romania to Glasgow, Scotland. Grab a local dish or drink and travel around in the world without leaving the small square in front the town hall.

If you’re travelling with your family, then the Kinderweihnachten section of the market is a must-see. This area includes stalls selling toys, teddy bears, sweets and there’s even a handful of rides, including the famous two-tired carousel. Keep an eye out for Father Christmas!

Delicious Christmas Treats

A Lebkuchen stall at Nuremberg's Christmas market — Claudius Evan Gunawan / Shutterstock

Nuremberg is famous for some unique food and drinks even outside the festive period. However, things get taken up a notch when the market comes to town.

A staple you’ll find year-round just happens to be a great street food option to keep warmth and energy high as you browse. Drei im Weggla, which means ‘three in a bun’ in the local Frankish dialect, sees three small but delicious sausages loaded into a small breadbun and topped off with onions, mustard, sauerkraut or whatever else the vendor has on offer. You’ll easily see off several of these even on the shortest trips.

Nuremberg’s most famous food export, especially at Christmastime is of course Lebkuchen. These chocolate-coated soft gingerbread cakes, often in the shape of a heart, are all over the place during the Christkindlesmarkt. Pay a visit to the Lebkuchen Schmidt store for year-round Lebkuchen too!

The other staple at any German Christmas market, and especially in Nuremberg, is Gluhwein. This warm mulled wine really helps to fight off the cold, especially if the alcohol content is on the higher side. You’ll probably end up with a few complimentary cups pushed into your hands as you circle the market, such is the ubiquity of this glorious winter drink for grown-ups only.

For a truly unique drinks experience, head over to see the world’s largest Feuerzangenbowle. This part-red wine punch, part fondue experience with added flames is common on Christmas tables across Germany, especially on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. However, the Christkindlesmarkt Feuerzangenbowle just happens to be 3.5 metres high!

Grab a cup of seasoned wine that is topped off with a flaming, rum-soaked ball of sugar which sweetens everything nicely, leaving a sweet and spicy aftertaste that oozes Christmas.

Visiting the Nuremberg Christkindlsmarkt

Nuremberg's Christmas market at night — Scirocco340 / Shutterstock

The market opens on the Friday before advent and runs until Christmas Eve. If Christmas Eve falls on a Sunday, then the market will finish on the Saturday of that weekend.

Stores usually open around 10am and close at 9pm, but some food vendors may extend beyond those hours. Entry to the market is free.

Naturally, this is the busiest time of year for the city, so hotels, guest houses and AirBnBs are expensive and need to be booked as far in advance as possible. However, a good option is to stay in the towns of Fürth and Erlangen, both reachable by train in under 15 minutes. A lesser-known spot is Lauf an der Pegnitz, a gorgeous little medieval town that has its own Christmas stalls.

A great way to fully explore the market and the stories behind it is to join a guided tour of the Nuremberg Christkindlesmarkt. Here, a local will take you to the most famous stalls and spots and explain the local customs and cultures that have helped to make this 500+ year old traditions so special.